Underneath every car or truck is a
big fat bolt sticking out of an oil pan connected to the engine bottom. Take
two combination wrenches consecutive in size and insert the ring of one into
the open end of the other to create a torque bar. Flick the drain bolt off
quickly and let the used oil pour into a pan. Have a rag handy.
Two-wrench torque bar
While the oil pan is draining, go for
the oil filter. These are sometimes right there, on the side of the engine,
atop, behind the wheel well or inside the engine with a cap. Try turning the
filter first by hand. If it won’t budge, use a band wrench or Jap tool. If you
have neither or these, then jam a flathead sideways and perpandicularly through
the filter and turn it off that way. Be ready: the filter will spew oil
immediately after a half turn. Check and make sure the rubber gasket is intact
on the filter and then dump them both into the pan. Wipe the mounting base. Dip
your finger in some new oil and lube the gasket on the new filter. Screw it
hand tight with a ¼ turn past resistance.
Standard oil filter
By now the oil pan should be down to a
trickle. Flush the engine by droppng a ½ quart new oil through. Wait five
minutes or for a one second drip and put the drain plug back in—¼ tight again.
Clean up. Add one quart less than the fill capacity listed in the owner’s
manual and start the engine. Make sure the oil pressure gage needle goes up or
the oil pressure light goes out, and then while the engine is still running
check for leaks underneath. Also, check the transmission fluid. Stop the
engine. Check the engine oil level and add whatever necessary. On most vehicles
the marked area at the end of the dipstick represents a quart; some are divided
and cross-hatched into halves and quarters. Replace oil fill cap and repeat in
3,000 miles.
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